Stunning Anjou Chenin.
Sixty-year-old vines, very low yields, slow pressing, wild yeast ferment without temperature control and maturation for twelve months in three-to-five-year barrels, makes for a rich, earthy style of wine with bruised orchard fruit. Imagine ripe apples rolled in honey-coated green leaves then add cinnamon and musk and some spiky acidity for definition. The wine moves, sometimes more mellow and textured, sometimes sharper, and delineated.
Loire Valley vigneron Benoît Courault is something of a legend in French wine circles. Having cut his vinous teeth is Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy) and then in Tavel with Eric Pfifferling of L'anglore, he returned to the Loire to take over 6.5 hectares in Anjou. His vineyard is organic, tended to entirely by hand and horse, and his non-interventionist philosophy extends into the winery. All of his wines we have tasted to date have been a total joy to drink.